Last month we looked at how to select computer equipment. This month we'll find out how to test it, and insure that you are getting the performance you expect. Here is the problem: If you have 2 vendors both selling 90 Mhz Pentium with a Gigabyte Hard drive and 16 MB of memory, CD-ROM, Modem, and 2 floppies, you might have a price range of $2200 to $3200 for what is supposed to be the same machine!
As you might guess there are tremendous differences in parts that supposedly have the same specifications. Also interesting is the fact that one dealer is not making $1000 more than the other, both are making about $50.00 per thousand in markup and perhaps $100 in preparation costs, ie; loading software, testing and delivery.
So how do you know what you are buying? Here are some tips: First be sure you are not buying seconds. The FTC is currently investigating Packard Bell for a practice I deplore, that of selling dealer returns (or seconds) in the parts used to build the machine. While the investigation is continuing, many non-computer stores have sold machines that contain seconds without knowing it.
Let's say as a computer dealer I buy a One Gigabyte drive, when I formatted it I found about 150K of bad sectors on it. This would occur about 7 to 10 per cent of the time. As a good dealer I would return this drive. However, over 99 per cent of it is good, so when it was returned it would be sold as a second. A drive like this may find itself sold as new in a mass merchandise machine. It would work and allow the machine to be sold for a few dollars less.
The problem is that drives like this are risky to compress (with programs like stacker). That is why Microsoft added SCANDISK to the DOS utilities. So at a C:> run CHKDSK or SCANDISK and be sure the report comes back with NO ERRORS. You use these programs by typing there name then pressing the enter key.
Second, have the dealer open the case for you, check and see if there is any dust in the machine and if there are any discolored parts. If you can't get the machine opened look at the power supply fan, a machine with dust on it has been sitting around to long. Also look along the vents on the Monitor, they should also be clean. Find out whether the monitor is able to hit SVGA resolution, you might find all it can do is 640x480, you want at least 800x600 resolution even if you don't use it now.
Third, listen for the disk drives. All drives make sound but the better ones are reasonably loud. Take a disk to copy, good disk drives copy disks faster. Ask for the brand name of the disks, if you hear Teac, Panasonic or Sony you are on firmer ground than if you hear a name you can't pronounce or no name at all. If you can look at the frame of the floppy drives. The best floppy drives have cast aluminum frames, rather than bent metal. Look at the case finish, better cases have all the burrs removed.
Forth, pay particular attention to the power supply (a bright shiny box near the place the power cord goes in). It normally has the fan in it. You want to see the initials UL or SA on this box, if you don't - don't buy the machine. The Underwriters Laboratories test units like this and some insurance policies require all appliances to be UL or SA rated. It would be a shame to have your fire policy voided to save $20 on the power supply.
Fifth, while your in the case check to see that the memory is held in with metal clips, not plastic ones. Plastic clips are cheaper and not as strong, making upgrading the machine risky. Speaking of upgrades, make sure there is at least some room in the expansion bay for cards and drives, one drive and two cards should be considered a minimum unless you already have a fully loaded machine. Even then there should be at least one card slot. Look at the contacts on the cards, they should be gold plated to resist corrosion.
Sixth, get a benchmark program, like Landmark Speed, Norton Utilities, or PC Tools, and use it to run basic speed tests. By comparing the ratings of different machines you can see that not all are created equal. Some of these benchmark tests are even free, we have several on our BBS (One Crossroads Place) 913-663-1100 in the TEST file library. More comprehensive tests like those of BYTE and PC Magazine are premiums for ordering the magazine or calling there BBS's. Also commercial programs like those made by Touchstone or QA will measure performance and tell you if you are getting a dream or a nightmare.
I have seen as much as 3.9 times the difference in performance from two machines from the same manufacture in the same class! This is because some machines are not properly set up, things like internal cache or memory speed options are not correctly set. Have your dealer record the setup information for you (CMOS) so that if (excuse me - WHEN) your battery fails you can reset the machine. By having the testing (benchmark) programs these situations will be clear. Do not think that just because it is a name brand errors will not be made, even IBM's get the settings wrong sometimes.
Seventh if the machine is used for mission critical applications or as a network file server, have a separate professional consultant test it for you. The $60 to $80 you will spend on that will help keep you from buying a lemon. Make it clear that you will not be buying from the consultant because you want them to give you unbiased judgments. You should also do this if you are spending over $3500 or getting any just released high performance machine. This is roughly analogous to having an independent mechanic look at a car your thinking of buying.
Eight - If you are buying from a mass merchandiser be sure your return privileges on the unit are long enough (say 30 days) to objectively evaluate it before it becomes a fixture in your life. Be realistic as to a modern computers life. While the tax man may say it will last 5 years, for economic usefulness, guess closer to 3 years. The minimum warrantee should be 1 year and 3 years is not unheard of today. Check to see if there is a help desk or 800 number so that if you have a question you know where to go.
Nine, if you don't know anything about computers, find a friend that does, or any 14 year old kid, have the sales person explain it to them, and see if everything they say seems accurate and sincere. Check the manuals and reference material against what they say to insure accuracy. Be sure to get all reference material. You will need this later, if you upgrade. Remember you can always higher a ringer for less than $100 that will be happy to go with you. If no one can be cajoled to help, one thing you can check on your own is the weight. All things being equal (except for laptops) the heavy machine should win.
And tenth, but not last, be sure everything you are promised is written on the sales slip. PC's are loaded with options, and if it is not on the sales slip, they don't have to deliver it. If you are unsure as to what comes with the machine, have them list everything you can see or are told about. This is not to say that any dealer is trying to do you wrong, but with many options, it helps everyone to have a completely described order. Also if you ever are victim of a theft or fire, the completely documented sales slip (with all the serial numbers) will become a great tool for insurance settlement.
Be aware that computers (like jewelry) is often excluded from insurance policies (or must be separately described) be prepared by reviewing your insurance in advance. Since software is often not covered at all be sure to have an off site backup of all your disks. Your original disks are not a backup! If you don't have a back up get one now, if the store can't help you with this, find another vendor.
I hope some of these thoughts will help you select a better machine, and that you will be happy with it. It does pay to shop around, and use what you learn at one store as leverage when negotiating with another. While computers are not like cars, often you can get a dealer to include things like cables or a surge strip with the order to overcome the competitions offer. Good hunting!
If you would like to have computer questions answered, please send them to me by e-mail at Kansas City Mail Online or by the Internet: graeme@kcmo.metrobbs.com. The e-mail impaired can reach me by fax at 816-252-5545 or phone at 816-252-4080.
Graeme Gibson, C.D.P. is the Service Director of Computer Training Corporation and author of ``How to Build a Clone Computer'' and ``The Computer Repair Handbook.'' A former NASA programmer, he has worked in the computer field since 1972. His weekly TV show Computers Today is distributed locally by American Cablevision and Tele-Cable. Check with your cable company for additional times and channels.
copyright 1995 Graeme Gibson
copyright Graeme Gibson, C.D.P. 1996
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